The eleventh entry in the Blue Rooster Food Co. Summer Chef Series is Andrew Taylor’s Eventide Dog. The $8 hot dog is served on a steamed Japanese-style bun and topped with fried oysters, tartar sauce and pickled trio of daikon, jalapeño & red onions.
For many, the appeal of this hot dog is the inclusion of fried oysters. It is a neat concept. I’ve actually been waiting to see if anyone would attempt a lobster-and-hot dog combination, and so—while mollusks are an altogether different type of shellfish—this pairing of hot dogs and seafood comes closest to that idea. But I’m not sure if the fried oysters—which, truth be told, got a little soggy underneath the sauce and pickled ingredients—are as much of a bona fide ingredient as they are a novelty. Still, they weren’t unpleasant, and I can now boast that I’ve eaten a hot dog with oysters on it, so there’s that.
That said, the reason you absolutely must try the Eventide dog is the impossibly soft, delightfully chewy bun, which is the same one used in Eventide’s lobster rolls. (I seriously want to buy this stuff in 50 pound bags and take a nap in it.) The ratio of bun-to-meat was perfect, and the textural contrast of the spongy bun against the grilled hot dog made this thing a joy to eat. As much as I enjoy this type of bun with lobster meat or pork belly, I think it is even better served here.
I love red onions, but I’m less of a fan of jalapeños and radishes. However, I found that in their pickled form, the heat of the peppers and the potency of the daikon were toned down quite a bit. I ate every bite of mine. The tartar sauce was an unexpected treat in that it provided a nice tangy kick. I’m wondering if this is the same paprika-injected stuff they serve at Eventide? The little red-colored specks I spotted might suggest a connection.
The Eventide Dog is, in my opinion, among the best of the series, ranking right up there with Week 2’s Sloppy Penatzer (still my benchmark for hot dog greatness). It will be available through Thursday, August 14. Next week’s hot dog—the last one I’ll be able to cover, as I will be traveling during the final week of the Blue Rooster series—will be from Cheryl Lewis of El Rayo.